| BACKSTAGE
at the New York SPRING shows
Fashion Report by Laurie Brookins
Photos by Patrick McMullan
Forget about leaves turning or post-Labor
Day protocol: The true sign that Fall has arrived—thus making
it permissible to break out all those fabulous new clothes—is
the sight of the white tents going up in Bryant Park heralding the
return of Fashion Week. New York’s biannual fashion theatrics,
better known as 7th on Sixth, hit the ground running when the shows
kicked off September 18th. And “running” had to be the
word of the week, as an abbreviated schedule (crunched from 10 days
to six so as not to conflict with the September 11th anniversary)
meant a crazed dash from runway show to press event to after-party
and back again. More than 65 back-to-back runway shows and events
were sanctioned by Fashion Week organizers. Fold in the non-affiliated
designers and the wealth of store openings, model parties and beauty
events, and the glamour of the week is tinged with a decidedly exhaustive
air.
Oscar de la Renta let loose with
dresses and trenches in gold brocades, and fluid, floaty skirts
in spice-market tones of mustard and saffron.
Indeed, while it really is supposed
to be about the clothes, plenty of spectacle occurred off the runway—the
Grand Central of it all being the non-stop parade of fashionistas,
celebrities and wannabes perusing and posing in the lobby of the
Bryant Park tents (where such sponsors as W Hotels, Shu Uemura,
Redken, the Style Network and Courvoisier plied their wares).
Fashion ushers in the colorful,
the floaty and the steadfastly feminine
But oh, the clothes. Perhaps
the most welcome change from the gloomy, all-black collections that
pervaded the Fall season is the idea that New York’s designers
seem to have emerged butterfly-like into a floaty, ultra-feminine
and ultimately more upbeat spring. From easy chiffons and jerseys
to the prettiest of floral prints and polka dots to modern takes
on retro dressing, spring promises to be altogether ladylike and,
quite simply, lovely. Here are the highlights:
Wednesday, September 18TH
TOMMY HILFIGER, 10:30 a.m
Tommy set the tone for te week with a collection
of clothes you’d be desperate to have if you were shipwrecked
on a very glamorous island. For women, that meant knee-length cargo
pants, halters and minis in slinky silk charmeuse. There was also
much emphasis on mixing the idea of hard and soft, such as a jean
jacket above a lacy skirt or a gauzy peasant top above those ubiquitous
cargo pants. The men, wearing linen or seersucker drawstring pants,
vests and loose-fitting jackets, all looked like sexy, scruffy versions
of Robinson Crusoe—if he was hanging out at Bungalow 8, that
is.
MICHAEL KORS, 12:45 p.m.
Magnificent Michael should just change his
middle name to “glamour” and be done with it (“subdued
glamour” would be more accurate, but that’s a little
too long for a driver’s license). For his Spring collection
Kors crafted an homage to Palm Springs—not present day, but
rather a more innocent (and yes, more glamorous) era. “Snappy”
was the buzzword used often to describe his smart little polo dresses
and twin sets paired with pencil skirts, made all the more glam
with ladylike flats and golf gloves. For a color palette, Kors stuck
with beige, navy and white. His only splash of color was a gorgeous
turquoise grouping, which looked perfect for cocktails on a golf
course in Palm Springs or Palm Beach.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA, 2:35 p.m.
A bejeweled, Persian-inspired invite to Oscar’s
show intimated that his presentation would be equal parts exotic
and opulent. Indeed, after an introduction of some tailored, understated
pieces in cream, de la Renta let loose with dresses and trenches
in shimmering gold brocades, as well as fluid, floaty skirts in
spice-market tones of mustard and saffron. There also were many
Oscar-worthy—in every sense of the moniker—evening dresses,
rife with ruffles or laser cuts (or, in the case of one red evening
dress, plenty of both). A grouping of strapless gowns with black
or red lace overlays was the ultimate in structured femininity.
They preceded a finale bridal gown, which wasn’t merely a
runway piece, but rather signaled the return of de la Renta’s
bridal line, which also bowed this fall.
CAROLINA HERRERA, 4:30 p.m.
Much of Herrera’s Spring collection was
straight out of Africa, though this had to be the most elegant safari
ever seen outside the Dark Continent. Forget the camouflage: Safari
jackets were crafted not in khaki but in fluid lime-silk charmeuse,
and they were paired with luscious chiffon skirts in wine-and-russet
paisley. Herrera always serves up the best of couture color combos:
For Spring she veered away from pastels, preferring to concentrate
on more saturated tones, from a soft mauve leather suit to cobalt-
or tangerine-silk charmeuse, all paired with touches of chocolate.
For evening, slinky column gowns were soft, sensual and simply cut,
because Herrera knows that it’s float and not fuss that will
have heads turning when you enter a room.
KENNETH COLE, 7:30 p.m.
For Kenneth Cole, it is never just about the
clothes; he wants you to think, too. The short film that preceded
his Spring collection projected a very determined message: “Stir
the air.” It would be easy to feel such independence in these
clothes, a largely neutral-toned group of separates that mixed earthy
fabrics and textures with soft femininity and structured lines.
A white canvas double-breasted jacket was worn over a soft camisole
and a natural canvas pleated skirt, while he paired a tailored admiral
jacket with a white ruffled shirt and a silk skirt. While there
were many of Spring’s airy fabrics, from chiffon to gauze
to lace, Cole also sent out plenty of leather and suede jackets
and skirts. Because, while you might not automatically pair a rust-suede
buckle jacket over a pink-mesh blouse and flesh-toned floral lace
skirt, Cole’s ultimate message—fashion or otherwise—is
that you never should be timid about stirring up things.
MARC JACOBS, 9:30 p.m.
An invite to Marc Jacobs is always one of the
most sought-after of Fashion Week, because of the show both on and
off the runway. His Spring collection didn’t disappoint, with
Sean “Puffy” Combs, Benicio Del Toro, Debbie Harry,
Rob Thomas, Anna Sui and Christy Turlington among the A-listers,
and Gisele Bündchen, Carmen Kass, Shalom Harlow, Eva Herzigova,
Amber Valletta and Carolyn Murphy striding the stage. But, as it
should be, the true spectacle was the clothes, as Jacobs produced
the most unabashedly ladylike, retro-inspired collection to date.
With easy chiffons, floral
prints and modern takes on retro dressing, Spring promises to be
altogether ladylike and, quite simply, lovely.
Taking his cue from the ’50s
and ’60s, Jacobs showed floral-print dresses and skirts that
seemed lighter than air and a happy (read: innocent) palette of
pink, pale yellow, orange and lavender. Jacobs garnered the most
attention, however, for jackets and suits that, depending on whom
you asked, were termed Chanel-like or Adolfo-esque. But this is
Jacobs, after all, which is why those nubby pastel jackets were
paired with floaty skirts and blouses, both softening them and adding
edge at the same time. Watching the show, you couldn’t help
but think that Jacobs is conjuring up a young woman who wants to
dive into her grandmother’s closet, emerging with a look that’s
simultaneously vintage and modern.
Other Wednesday highlights:
Perry Ellis was positively Gatsby-esque with
flowing tea-dyed dresses with handkerchief hems, as well as relaxed
linen suiting for the men….Usher was the front-row attraction
at John Varvatos, who showed a collection of silk, cashmere and
linen pieces that the designer called a mix of “Parisian sophistication
and St. Tropez chicness.”…Luca Luca offered one of the
most romantic, feminine shows of the week, with ’50s-inspired
dresses that boasted full, flirty skirts and fitted tops.
Thursday, September 19th
BILL BLASS, 9:30 a.m.
It’s roundly agreed that Lars Nilsson
finally hit his stride with this, his fourth collection for the
house that Blass built. A master tailor, Nilsson evoked the best
of Blass with a grouping of superbly cut sportswear that called
to mind a vacation in St. Tropez, most notably a striped rugby with
white wide-legged pants. Nilsson also made use of one of the season’s
most popular fabrics: seersucker, seen as jackets, blouses and a
breezy shirtdress with romantic, oversized sleeves. For evening,
Nilsson sent out a series of floaty chiffon and silk charmeuse gowns
in luscious geranium tones, from pale pink to rose to coral. We
tend to toss around the word “beautiful” to the point
that it loses its true meaning, but these dresses were exactly that.
Somewhere, Bill is smiling.
ANNE KLEIN, 10:30 a.m.
Alicia Silverstone slipped backstage to have
the M.A.C crew touch up her makeup prior to the start of the show.
Not that you could blame her—next to Bridget Hall in the house’s
ad campaign, Silverstone is the celebrity face most closely identified
with the collection since Charles Nolan took over. She’s actually
an ideal image: Just young and hip enough to prove that Anne Klein
is moving in a new direction, but decidedly safe and without edge,
so as not to alienate the classic Anne Klein customer.
While it really is supposed
to be about the clothes, plenty of spectacle occurred off the runway.
The same could be said for the
Spring collection. Nolan took casual, classic pieces (many of them
’80s-inspired) and updated them with the season’s must-have
fabrics: seersucker, parachute silk and taffeta. Many of the skirts
boasted handkerchief hems that virtually floated down the runway,
and a polka-dotted silk slip dress looked like the breeziest of
Spring choices. The largely neutral-toned palette extended to evening,
with the clear favorite being a paillette-covered nude slip dress
with a sexy draped back—simple, yet spectacular, which is
exactly the balance Nolan wanted to achieve.
ZAC POSEN, 12:30 p.m.
You have to wonder about the pressure felt
by an impossibly gorgeous 22-year-old who’s been declared
fashion’s latest wünderkind, a fact further anointed
by the celebs—Ellen Barkin, Julianne Moore, First Daughter
Barbara Bush and Posen’s muse, Natalie Portman (accompanied
by her dog, Charlie)—gracing the front row. But Zac Posen
isn’t succumbing to such pressure; rather, he’s rising
above it, producing a Spring collection that demonstrated his growing
maturity.
Sure, Posen is still obsessed with all things angular, from exaggerated
pointy collars to chevron prints to swingy dresses with handkerchief
hems. And while there was a pointed reference to ’40s Hollywood,
especially in all those bias-cut siren dresses, Posen softened the
overall statement with simple skirts and filmy, feminine blouses,
all blatantly pretty and surely meant to show that he could please
retailers as much as celebrities and the fashion press. In the end,
it was the ultimate proof that Posen is working all the right angles.
CALVIN KLEIN, 5:30 p.m.
Even the master of minimalism couldn’t
help throwing in a few ultra-feminine, romantic touches this season—and
sometimes Calvin-style romance is just too lovely to behold. The
color palette was typical Klein: ivory, white, taupe and black,
with splashes of muted pink and teal. Liberal usage of silk charmeuse
and chiffon also made the statement that this would be a more fluid
collection. So-subtle details of rucking or pin-tucking were sparingly
used in an otherwise clean collection, though a pair of corset tops,
shown with slim trousers and a pencil skirt, proved to be among
the most overtly romantic pieces. But it was the final looks that
drew gasps from Gwyneth Paltrow and Sandra Bullock: a grouping of
gorgeous bias-cut evening dresses in white-silk chiffon—perfection
on the runway, and destined for the red carpet.
BCBG MAX AZRIA, 7:30 p.m.
By contrast, Max Azria’s Spring collection
was a veritable Easter parade of yellow, lilac and robin’s-egg
blue. Indeed, BCBG clearly wants women to not only explore color
for Spring, but to wholeheartedly embrace it. There were flirty
knee-length skirts in every shade under the rainbow, while feminine
(albeit restrained) flounces provided a key detail. The few prints
in evidence were subtle graphics in watercolor tones, while the
loveliest statement was the grouping of knee-length chiffon dresses
at show’s end. Soft, flowing, with minimal hard edges, this
was a collection that didn’t apologize for being pretty—rather,
it shouted it from the rooftops.
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, 9:30 p.m.
It seems that Rodriguez is the latest to “go
Lagerfeld,” fashion-speak for a dramatic weight loss. He showed
off his new, svelte self—following a collection that was equally
notable for its slim lines and sexy confidence.
Black and white knee-length dresses were cunningly crafted with
strips and panels of fabric, but what truly made them stand out
was their body-hugging fit, among the slimmest cuts of the week.
For evening, Rodriguez went for more fluid, forgiving lines, the
favorite being an impossibly pretty, pink-silk halter gown. Ultimately
it was an ideal collection for the front-row faces (and bodies),
which included Julianna Margulies, Kyra Sedgwick and an extremely
pregnant Sarah Jessica Parker, who undoubtedly was making mental
notes: “1) Tell Narciso I want everything; but 2) more importantly,
hit him up for post-pregnancy diet tips.”
Max Azria’s collection
was an Easter parade of yellow, lilac and robin’s-egg blue.
It didn’t apologize for being pretty—it shouted it from
the rooftops.
Other Thursday highlights:
Marcia Gay Harden and Angie Harmon were among
those seen at Cynthia Steffe, who looked to a David Bailey photography
book of ’60s icons for inspiration. The result: denim cargo
capris, macramé sundresses and gingham baseball jackets paired
with crochet skirts….Catherine Malandrino was in the mood
to venture to Morocco this season, crafting easy linen and silk
separates in desert-friendly shades of moss and blush, as well as
chiffon cut-out tops and cowl-neck dresses that were both chic and
sheik-worthy)….Jill Stuart’s Spring collection was called
one of the most utilitarian of the week, offering plenty of office-friendly
separates. But in keeping with the season’s themes, there
were romantic touches, such as ’20s-inspired silk dresses
in soft, muted prints, as well as a fringed red dress that gave
her otherwise straightforward collection some much-needed va-va
voom….Which was in abundance at Emilio Cavallini, who sent
out an abundance of cat suits and bodysuits that could be worn alone
or layered with other pieces (then again, if your body looks this
good, why would you want to?).
Friday, September 20th
CARMEN MARC VALVO, 12:30
p.m.
I always sit in a Carmen Marc Valvo show wondering
why he’s not more famous than he is, as every single piece
is always precisely cut, perfectly detailed and totally glamorous.
A latte leather pencil skirt, for example, featured laser-cut detail
and was paired with a cardinal red cashmere polo, while a superbly
cut satin corset top was shown with understated black silk-and-linen
trousers. But make no mistake: From a black cashmere tank with a
silk-tiered scallop skirt to a polka-dot chiffon halter gown or
a nude glass-beaded corset gown, Valvo’s clothes see your
office only through the window of the garment bag that hangs on
the back of your door. He’s confident enough to leave the
casual stuff to others, because those who know glamour will seek
him out when the time comes.
VERA WANG, 2:30 p.m.
Like Ralph Lauren and several others, Wang
sent out a completely black collection for Fall, and so for Spring
seems to have moved into a happier frame of mind. Actually, serene
might be more accurate, as you’ll never get anything too bright
or cheery from Wang. Instead there were plenty of white and champagne
silk and chiffon, all fluid gowns that were dripping in elegant
details, from a lush, tiered skirt to crystal beading at the hip.
Wang did explore some rich colorations, including an intense violet
bias-cut gown and layered-chiffon florals that boasted couture seaming.
Wang employs such details in her ongoing quest for modernity, and
while these gowns weren’t as cutting-edge as Wang has exhibited
in the past, they nonetheless demonstrated that serene is a very
happy place to be.
DONNA KARAN, 3:30 p.m.
Perhaps one of the most joyful shows of the
week, Donna Karan pushed somber spirituality aside, favoring instead
some good old-fashioned optimism. Her ’40s-inspired collection
was a retro delight from start to finish, from strong-shouldered
suits to jersey wrap dresses to swingy skirts in colorful prints.
She made use of polka dots, the happiest of Spring prints, in dresses
and a kimono-style robe that practically sailed down the runway.
There were also plenty of colorful prints and eyelet fabrics; when
paired with the flawless makeup—retro eyeliner and perfect
red lips—the overall look was very Betty Grable or Lauren
Bacall. In other words, easy glamour that harkens back to a Golden
Age.
ANNA SUI, 7:45 p.m.
Juxtaposition is what Anna Sui is all about,
which is why a very sweet, sexy and sporty collection was accompanied
by the sounds of the Ramones from start to finish. The designer,
known for her glam-rock ways, turned into a veritable Sports Authority
for Spring, sending out shrunken football jerseys and cropped baseball
jackets that never for a moment looked anything other than totally
feminine. But it was her take on country-club living that proved
to be Sui’s strongest statement, from tennis dresses splashed
with lace to too-short golf skirts embroidered with frogs. You’d
want to belong to the club that welcomes these clothes: playful,
edgy and ready to throw a party.
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, 9:30 p.m.
For his second show in New York, Williamson
said he wanted to create “a Fantasy Island, where girls sat
on the beach all day and then went out for cocktails.” The
result, which Williamson titled “Flamingo Bay,” seemed
more Havana-inspired: bright, tropical colors and sheer, island-friendly
fabrics. Among the standouts: orange-and-fuchsia chiffon cocktail
dresses with shimmering black bugle beads in a leafy pattern. You
can’t be shy in Williamson’s clothes, which explained
the attendance of such A-list clients as Nicole Kidman and Britney
Spears, whose arrival caused one of the biggest frenzies of the
week.
Other Friday highlights:
Mark Montano presented one of the most fanciful
shows of the week with a “Flights of Fancy” collection
that was equal parts theatrics and saleable clothes. For those seeking
a little fantasy, Montano offered flirty, flowing and, yes, feathery
skirts in bright, tropical tones. More realistic, but no less beautiful,
were the superbly cut dresses in polka-dot or striped chiffon, an
elegant choice for the woman who knows why the caged bird sings….DieselStyleLab
is one of those shows that fashionistas tend to look down at through
their noses—you know, a collection of real, commercial clothes
that most consumers not only actually will find in the stores, but
also actually can afford. True to its name, the collection is meant
to be the more experimental end of the company’s $500 million
jeans business. That’s the reason for such looks as India-print
and silk-plaid tanks and tops to two-tone jeans cinched at the ankle.
The result was intended to be a little more street—even if
it was a street we’ve all visited….Paris-based Lloyd
Klein always can be counted on for a dramatic collection, so it
was surprising to see such sporty touches throughout his Spring
offerings. With a palette largely consisting of blue, black and
white, Klein offered such athletic touches as double tuxedo stripes
down the legs and sleeves of coats and trousers. Satin polka-dot
linings and raw edges were meant to add a little dramatic edge to
his women’s line, while his men’s pieces focused on
a casual air, particularly for evening, with open-neck embroidered
shirts and relaxed linen trousers. The perfect combination of sporty-meets-dramatic-meets-hip?
The designer’s finale, a white leather-and-organza wedding
dress, modeled by Klein’s muse, Paris Hilton.
Saturday, September 21st
LILLY PULITZER, 11:40 a.m.
There are shows that don’t garner any
hype, nor do they attract a large cross-section of front-row faces,
but nevertheless they turn out to be among the most enjoyable, most
emotional presentations of Fashion Week. Pulitzer’s Spring
collection was one such example, a true event for the media, consumers
and retailers alike. You got a sense of Lilly loyalty from the moment
you walked into the Celeste Bartos Forum of the New York Public
Library, as festive Pulitzer prints were the uniform of most in
attendance. And if you didn’t get the memo, they happily handed
you a Pulitzer-print scarf so you could join the club.
If timing is everything, Pulitzer is ideally positioned, as her
brightly toned prints seemed right in step with the rest of the
week. Pink “palm stripe” sweaters were paired with flamingo-pink
boy shorts in stretch terry, while a silk halter was paired with
pique pants. Because this is Pulitzer, you can’t forget about
the dresses—totally wearable, totally serviceable shifts and
halters, either in white pique or in those whimsical pastel animal
prints. There were also plenty of options for men and children—that
explained the number of kids in the audience, which reached well
into the double digits. When Pulitzer herself strode on-stage at
show’s end, the crowd gave one of the week’s few standing
ovations, bringing her to tears. She shouldn’t have been so
surprised, as loyalty to Lilly seems very much a family affair.
RICHARD TYLER, 3:30 p.m.
No tents for Richard Tyler: To launch his lower-priced
line, the designer opted for a small, low-key showing in his TriBeCa
town house. It was a suitable venue for a collection that also strives
to be understated, starting with the color palette, which was primarily
comprised of neutrals, with a few splashes of lilac, fuchsia and
geranium thrown in for flavor. Fitted-to-the-body pantsuits, with
curvy, slightly cropped jackets, made up a large part of the collection,
and it’s clear that Tyler imbued this line with his trademark
slim tailoring. There were less constructed pieces, such as silk-charmeuse
slip dresses worn under jackets, but look closer and you’d
see the touches of tailoring, such as pintucking in the back or
subtle rucking on the sides. With this launch, Tyler achieved all
he was intending: a younger, less-expensive line that doesn’t
sacrifice quality or style; it’ll have twentysomethings who
can’t afford his signature collection running for their credit
cards.
ZANG TOI, 7:30 p.m.
The title of Toi’s show was the stuff
of many a woman’s fantasies: “The Lady of the Manor
and the Hunky Gardener.” Straight out of Lady Chatterley’s
Lover, the English-country-garden looks were indeed lush and fantastical:
a rose-print silk organza “morning robe” edged in pale-pink
pleating, or a peaked-strapless column gown of chocolate silk-taffeta
with pink silk-chiffon roses trailing down the back. There were
more accessible daytime looks, such as cuffed shirts and Capri pants
in garden stripes, as well as khaki silk-ottoman pantsuits.
A bejeweled, Persian-inspired invite
to Oscar de la Renta’s show intimated that his presentation
would be equal parts exotic and opulent.
But as Fashion Week was drawing
to a close, it was Toi’s over-the-top femininity that drew
raves, most notably the pink or lilac silk-cashmere twinsets with
floral-adorned skirts that flared at the knee. After all, Toi wants
you to dream about the hunky, bare-chested model he sent down the
runway in garden or tuxedo pants; because if you’re wearing
these clothes, “bodice-ripper” might be a term that
goes beyond books.
RALPH LAUREN, 8:30 p.m.
What a splendid, civilized way to wrap up one
of Fashion Week’s final days: To evoke Spring’s romantic
mood, Ralph Lauren moved his show to the Cooper-Hewitt Museum, where
under a draped, white-muslin tent dripping with crystal chandeliers,
candles and champagne, Lauren presented one of the week’s
most luxe collections.
Zac Posen is obsessed with
all things angular, from exaggerated pointy collars to chevron prints
to swingy dresses with handkerchief hems.
Using muted English-rose colors and tea-stained
fabrics, Lauren evoked a modern-day Henry James heroine: She loves
the luxury of a sweater over a satin skirt or chiffon dresses that
are shredded couture-style for fashion-forward edge. Backstage after
the show, Elizabeth Hurley waxed rhapsodic over the evening looks,
which consisted largely of bustiers in faded-wallpaper brocades
over bustled skirts in distressed denim. Romantic and modern at
once, Lauren’s collection capped the week nicely, as it was
the perfect portrait of a lady.
Other Saturday highlights:
Brazilian-born Carlos Miele injected plenty
of Carnaval into his Spring collection, from feathered dresses and
armbands to a “bossatronic” beat to ultra-sexy clothes
that showed plenty of skin. Both necklines and jeans plunged dangerously
low, while slits were cut high into R-rated territory. For extra
sizzle, Miele offered denim bikinis, macramé halter tops
and strappy tanks trimmed with seashells….For the past two
seasons Alice Roi has ventured from her Downtown roots to a decidedly
more Uptown feel. For Spring, this meant A-line dresses and skirts
that fell to the knee and were neatly cinched with thin belts, as
well as low-cut “Uptown dresses” paired with clean,
simple cigarette pants….It seems that a season off did not
diminish Miguel Adrover’s desire to push the fashion envelope.
Titled “Citizens of the World,” Adrover’s showing
was intended to inspire a little controversy, but the result was
largely gimmicky, from the Euro couple in matching shark-skin suits
to the hip socialite in a T-shirt dress of Swarovski crystals, to
the model in the “World’s Hope” shirt, a baggy
blue affair emblazoned with the United Nations logo. Adrover’s
strength is in his tailoring, proven in the evening looks that ranged
from an art deco crystal-beaded cocktail dress to the multi-pleated
“tower” dress that revealed his love of architecture.
Sunday, September 22nd
The highlights:
Did Miami Beach-based Esteban Cortazar garner
his fair share of the week’s hype factor because a) he’s
all of 18 years old; b) he’s a Colombian-born designer known
for ultra-sexy clothes; or c) Madonna, Shakira, Lenny Kravitz and
Todd Oldham are fans? Your answer should be d) all of the above.
The men of Hilfiger, in drawstring
pants and vests, all looked like sexy versions of Robinson Crusoe—if
he was hanging at Bungalow 8.
Oldham and Nicky Hilton were
among those in the audience when Cortazar held his first New York
showing Sunday afternoon, a narrowly focused collection of 64 pieces
crafted in just three very South Beach-friendly colors: aqua, lime
and mint. Skin baring was the other theme common to Cortazar’s
looks, from flared-sleeve, midriff-baring cha-cha tops to hip-hugging
white leather bellbottoms to chiffon miniskirts with side slits.
Rather than being too overtly sexy, the result is that Cortazar
seems to simply love women, and it will be exciting to see both
the designer and his clothes mature with age.
While you may not pair a
rust-suede buckle jacket, pink-mesh blouse and floral lace skirt,
Kenneth Cole says never be timid about stirring up things.
Finally, because no Fashion Week can be without
its controversy, there was plenty of frenzy at the Phat Farm/Baby
Phat show Sunday night. One of the hottest tickets of the week was
to see the debut of Baby Phat, designed by Kimora Lee Simmons, wife
of Phat Farm designer Russell. Problem was, many of those attending
Phat Farm kept their seats, meaning those who had tickets for only
Baby Phat were prevented from entering the at-capacity show by none
other than New York’s Finest.
The result: After many “Don’t you know who I am?!?”
arguments, several VIPs were forced to watch the show from a live
feed outside the tent (but, proving that there’s VIP and VVIP,
a few, such as Queen Latifah, Mya and Tyra Banks, were hustled inside
a side entrance).
More than 65 back-to-back
runway shows and events were sanctioned by Fashion Week organizers.
No matter whether live or via
closed-circuit TV, you couldn’t miss this collection, which
succeeded in being the ideal female counterpart to Phat Farm. The
Caribbean-inspired clothes ranged from lavender leopard-print chiffon
to denim hot pants to strapless one-piece rompers that cinched at
the knees. Just like the event surrounding this debut collection,
Baby Phat looked like it will fit nicely into the hype machine that
is fashion.
|

Carmen Kass at Calvin Klein.

Amanda Lepore at Heatherette

Anne Slater and Joan
Collins
at John Anthony

Natalia Vodianova at BCBG Max
Azria

At Behnaz Sarafpour

Erin Wasson at Behnaz Sarafpour

Bono at Rosa Chá’s
swimsuit show

Eugenia Volodina at Behnaz
Sarafpour

Anouck Lepère
at Behnaz Sarafpour

At Behnaz Sarafpour

At Carolina Herrera

At Carolina Herrera

At Chan Paul

Carolina Herrera and C.Z. Guest
at Herrera’s show

At Catherine Malandrino

At Oscar de la Renta

At Oscar de la Renta

At Oscar de la Renta

At Oscar de la Renta

Fashion Week backstage veteran
Audrey Smaltz (left) and her “ground crew” ladies.

Barbara Walters, Annette de
la Renta and Nancy Kissinger at Oscar de la Renta.

Caroline Ribeiro behind the
scenes at Douglas Hannant

At Douglas Hannant

At Douglas Hannant

Douglas Hannant backstage

Vikram Chatwal and Paris and
Nicky Hilton at Diane von Furstenberg

Barry Diller and Natasha Richardson
at Diane von Furstenberg

At Diane von Furstenberg

At Diane von Furstenberg

At Diane von Furstenberg

At Diane von Furstenberg

At Diane von Furstenberg

Erin O’Connor at Zac
Posen

December 2002

At Heatherette

Rie at Heatherette

At Heatherette
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